Please visit our home site at www.TRILOBOATS.com.

Anke and I live aboard WAYWARD, and wrote about it's design and construction at ABargeInTheMaking.blogspot.com.

Access to the net comes and goes, so I'll be writing in fits and spurts.Please feel free to browse the archives, leave comments where you will and write... I'll respond as I can.

Fair winds!

Dave and Anke
triloboats swirly gmail daughter com

Monday, July 3, 2023

MUSTELID Venture (Video Series)

MUSTELID
Photo courtesy of David Reece


MUSTELID Venture (Video Series)

Anke and I are proud (and a little nervous) to announce that Small Boats Nation (online, and affiliated with WoodenBoat) is releasing a 15 part video series, produced by ourselves and featuring our MUSTELID Venture.

Episodes are collected in this Playlist and this Collection at SBN as they are released. This is outside their paywall, so no subscription is required to view the series.  

Episode 1 introduces us, how we live, the need and proposal for our vessel.

Episodes 1 - 6 focus on MUSTELID's goals, concepts, construction, outfit, rig and life aboard.

Episodes 7 - 14  follow our trip in MUSTELID around Chichagof Island (plus a detour).

Episode 15 takes a look back on what we learned (I'll link this once released).


Plans for MUSTELID and other designs are available at triloboats.com.


*****

Small Boats Nation has a wealth of useful information... please consider subscribing. I've written this article for them about this trip which appears in their July 2023 issue.


33 comments:

  1. Yay! I am looking forward to watching the finished product!
    And I second your endorsement of Small Boats Nation (known as Small Boats Magazine until a few days ago).

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  2. Just read the first installment article. Awesome.

    I do wonder why you don't use GPS? Maps that "abandon accuracy for seek local information" is ah, exciting in my humble opinion.

    My own much smaller lake sailing adventures find GPS and a folding bicycle an awesome combo. More than a few times I've beached the sharpie and rode a dozen miles or so for a coffee shop or ice cream shop for a snack.

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    1. Hi Michael,

      Good question!

      We've carried GPS as backup for years and never had to use it. But we wouldn't hesitate for fog or outer coast entry (where lots of things look much alike).

      In the big picture, we sail in a region where line-of-sight navigation is target rich. But this a skill that gets rusty quickly if we don't keep using (and improving) it. GPS is a crutch we (lazy sailors) can get very used to!

      There's a small picture issue... to help out in close quarters, GPS has to coordinate with accurate charts. Neither NOAA nor eCharts are that accurate in most of the places we'd need the assist. Boat after boat up here runs into or swings into a mis-placed or unmarked rock after GPS all clear. Lat/Long is pretty durn accurate, but does little good for the up-close and personal.

      So that's it in a nutshell... don't need it big picture (excepting dense fog with no or few other indicators), and don't dare it small picture. So far, we've sailed around both needs.

      For your use, sounds like just the thing, with a payout in ICE CREAM! Wow!!

      Fair winds,

      Dave Z

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  3. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    1. WHOOPS! I clean up spam on occasion, and mistakenly deleted some of the 'anonymous' posts, here.

      My apologies for my sloppy work!

      Dave Z

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  4. Awesome news Dave. I’ve been waiting a long time to see your new design. I’ll look forward to watching your entire series. I know it’s going to be great! I hope you two are healthy and happy. Hogfish Maximus and Chris say hello!

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    1. Hi Chris,

      Good to hear from you... here's hoping your move to the PNW has been a happy one!

      Dave Z

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  5. This new boat of yours is nearly the exact boat that I have been envisioning building for the past 5 years. I just couldn't decide on the bow shape and was planning on a Punt Garvey/Dory with an aft-cabin and removable outriggers for stability. I'm thinking of a little wider beam so the bunk can be aft P to S with a small galley on Port. Anyway, I'll keep watching for the plans to come out. I love the Sampan bow. I'm just about ready to start building. I just bought some plans for a 24' Catamaran but I would rather build this boat because I would rather own and sail this boat. Beautiful job folks. Thanks.

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    1. Hi,

      I'm with you... love the shape range among these simple hulls. They've evolved independently from ancient Asia, throughout Europe and Africa and into the Americas and Oceania... definitely shapes that hover at a high level of function.

      I've always been fascinated by the log > raft > scow > garvey > sharpie > dory lineage... useful at every step.

      I'm working on the plans, now... I miscounted in the post (will correct), and they should be released 12 August.

      One thought on the wider hull... it will be much more stable, but much harder to row. Either way, best wishes toward your project!

      Dave Z

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    2. That's okay, I'm not planning on doing a lot of rowing, maybe just a little here and there. I am planning on having a couple batteries for some LED lights and an electric motor of some kind. Maybe a Torqueedo or maybe just a trolling motor to get away from the dock or the trailer. I have always thought that I could sail through or around most anything, having practiced doing it a lot in tight quarters but often in calm waters in my old Flying Scott! But not sure about this one... Yet!

      None the less, I'll buy a set of your plans when you get them done. I can scale them up 10% without too much hassle. But as soon as I saw this boat, I knew this is the one to build. Add some solar panels to the roof and a folding bicycle and I'm in heaven.

      Thank you for leading by example. I can't wait to get started.

      Delete
    3. Hi,

      Sounds great! Can't see it in these pics, but we have a 100W solar panel on the telescoping hatches (good look coming up in Episode 6).

      For the bike, check out swytchbike.com for a clever electrification .

      Feel free to alter the plans any way you like, and don't hesitate to drop me a line if I can help!

      Dave Z

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  6. Hello Dave ,
    Are these plans going too be on your Study Plans page ?
    Thanks
    Be Well

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    Replies
    1. Hi,

      I've got the plans complete, and they are being mounted at triloboats.com, as soon as my webmaster gets enough connectivity.

      I believe it will be mounted on the same page as the StudyPLANS (Order Plans link).

      Dave Z

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  7. I see the MUSTELID plans are available as a Full Set of plans. Are they also going too be available as a Study Plan?

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    1. Hi,

      I won't be putting out MUSTELID as a StudyPLAN... those work well with box barges, but M is a somewhat Curvy Dog, and therefore much more of a challenge to present.

      That being said, we kept the price very low as such plans go ($50.00). The free video series helps with that as it serves as an adjunct to the info provided in the plans.

      Dave Z

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  8. It would have been nice in the videos to see a _lot more_ detail about the design and construction of the rocket stove hood. Maybe that can be featured in a future blog post? Please?

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    Replies
    1. I'd order Mustelid plans just for that, if they included full details.

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    2. Hi,

      Thanks for the suggestion... I'm reaching, these days, for something worthwhile to write about. 8\

      The plans don't contain heater details. Most people who build have pretty definite ideas about how they prefer to outfit, so I don't generally specify. But a post is a great way to flesh out the option.

      I'll get to work.

      Dave Z

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    3. I also was intrigued by the rocket stove and hood, hoped to see more details. So yes, I too would like to see a post about your heating system.
      ~Kees~

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    4. I'm trying to decide if such a system would work out for a larger boat.

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    5. Hi,

      I'm guessing yes.

      The Ljungstrom Rig has been used and proven in several large vessels (though it remains uncommon). Especially good rig for trade-wind multihulls.

      The boom is novel (to my knowledge), and I think the approach could be usefully applied to any booms and sprits in any rig that uses them (most will have fixed masts vs rotating). The travelling land combining sheets and clew dramatically reduces stress on the boom when reefed. This allows a MUCH lighter spar. Plus it's DIY Cheap Willy.

      MUSTELID's rig as a whole addresses needs imposed by the forward rowing cockpit, so isn't as generally applicable. All sails can be handled from the cockpit, but the price is that the forward sails' Center of Effort is further forward than ideal. This is fine for off-wind sailing, but not when close-hauled. So... rowing into the wind; sailing off or across; either no calendar or a motor.

      TMI, likely, but... "He's a good man. And THOROUGH." (Big Lebowski) 8)

      Dave Z

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  9. I’ve heard or read somewhere I think that you plan to change the Mustelid’s rig for better on-wind sailing. What rig are you thinking of?

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    Replies
    1. Hi,

      We waffled for a while about a shaped, quadrilateral main - possibly sprit boomed or gaff - but are pretty much leaning against it.

      The main difficulty is quick and easy reefing from the cockpit. Some brailing systems work ok, but it's hard to beat that roller furling on a smaller sail.

      We didn't really sail that much into the wind in MUSTELID, anyway. Since it's unballasted, we can't sail hard on in higher winds, and in light winds, it's hard to beat rowing straight into it.

      Mostly, we use the windward lift to cross big expanses of water... any help to windward saves a lot of rowing once we reach the far shore. But then, it's not hard to just wait for a fair wind.

      Dave Z

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    2. We've come up with a quad option that looks good to us on paper.

      It's a sprit-sail (sprit running tack to peak, dividing the quad into an upper, inverted isosceles and lower triangle) but also a boom along the foot (both Holopuni inspired types). The first reef is to brail the sprit vertical and take one roll. This leaves a Leg O' Mutton (triangular) sail, rotated upward by the now vertical sprit. From this point, it handles just as M's standard LOMs.

      The effect is to increase total sail area by the amount of the upper triangle, but leave it easy to handle. This moves the overall CE aft, some, and should improve windward performance accordingly.

      We're going to get to try this out in the 'near' future, and will post on results.

      Dave Z

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  10. good morning anke and dave, just finished watching your mustelid videos....there are not enough adjectives...
    wonderful/beautiful/captivating, so great to see you guys in your element.
    not sure if we told you but we know are based in cap-breton, a habitation on the margaree river near the gulf and kilda hangs out when we're not on the move in the bras d'ors. if you can access it we are on instagram @svkilda robin+karen

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Robin and Karen,

      Good to hear from you! Kilda is as lovely as ever, and we love your cruising grounds!

      If you ever have the urge, we'd love to see you write or produce a video. You guys are WAY more photogenic, and the more the merrier!

      Dave and Anke

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  11. I haven't checked this blog for a while and I am happy to find there is a new boat. Very interesting design to row with a small cabin. You built it quickly, congratulations. I have been thinking of rows in even bigger boats. What do you think about rows in a bigger boat, like the T32? The idea would be small hops rowing, for exercise, not big distances. Like a houseboat with rows, for maneuvers. Would it work?

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  12. Hi Ricardo,

    Yes, oars do work on the bigger boats, but they're much harder and slow to move. The big issues are increased underwater profile (more water to push aside) and more wetted surface area (more drag).

    We've found Asian and vertical blade sculling to be more convenient for the bigger hulls... about the same speed and all the exercise, but less gear, stowage and handling.

    You might check out Harlan Hubbard's SHANTYBOAT (book)... they rowed a floating shack on the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers and in the Bayou country. Great read!

    A big issue with big oars is stowing them for a moment if we need to do something (sail, anchor, etc)... we call it 'the sword dance'.

    Most bigger boats need a tender... consider a decent rowing boat that serves the big one and gets you wider ranging exercise?

    But the short answer, is yes, it does work and some prefer 'em. You might be able to get a little more power for longer out of them.

    Happy rowing!

    Dave Z

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  13. Hey Dave, I am wondering about your outrigger plans for Mustelid. I hate to assume anything but am very interested in building
    my own Mustelid. One of the reasons I'm attracted to the design is because you mentioned early on about building outrigger for yours. Did you ever get around to it? My thinking is that you were planning on attaching them to the outwales and using lashing blocks similar to a Wharram cat, at least that's how I envisioned them.

    I am also wondering, now that you and Anke have had the opportunity to really test your boat over some time. Have you any design changes in mind? Anything that would make the boat better in your opinion? Autumn and then Winter is quickly approaching here and I am gearing up for a boat build over the winter months when there is nothing to do, other than work and read. I just spent a few hours today rewatchi g your video series on YT. Congratulations on the new book by the way! Will it be available anywhere other than Amazon? Thank you Dave.

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  14. Hi,

    You've got it on the outriggers. I'd add a few points:

    * We were planning to have four, tallish posts inserted into the spacered outwales with toggles at the bottom (to lock them in) at the corners of the cockpit. The crossbeams would be lashed to them to protect the outwales from direct contact.

    * We were planning to install Phillipine Kanga style amas... basically a slightly shaped log each side.

    * Micronesian struts to join and stabilize using a Settler's Wrench to fix and install.

    RE: Design changes to MUSTELID...

    Probably the main thing would be to eliminate the cabin and aft hold tumblehome. It just turns out to be a lot of work that complicates construction. Building out of full height sides (same flare) isn't as materials efficient, but if our time is worth anything, we make up the extra materials cost in short order. Window mounts are much simpler and more secure.

    Aside from that, we would build our own rocket stove (more cooking surface and thermal mass), insulate and lightly furnish the galley for more efficient storage.

    Everything worked great for a 3 season camper, but as she turned out to be 4 season capable, and for longer trips a little extra galley organization would reduce "campers' chaos".

    Last thing we'd try is epoxying copper wire mesh over the bottom (a step up from copper/epoxy?)... sanded every now and then to expose fresh copper, that might be a low impact, low weight anti-fouling, plus extra mechanical protection. As is, we scrape it every couple of months with no other AF.

    We'd also use harder woods for the spacered outwales (red cedar swells and shrinks more than is convenient) and sliding seat cleats (we wore dips in the spruce we used).

    We're looking at a Tabernacle for the foresail, with the foot in a slot for swinging forward and up. Currently, it has to be lifted clear of its partners... okay in flat water, but spooky when bouncing around.

    Um... bulkhead mounted wheel steering rather than the whipstaff... it worked well, but placement meant a twist and push when rowing. Will miss the simplicity, though.

    If you can take shorter side-walls (from the inboard), self-bailing cockpit floorboards would be nice so don't have to bail when not aboard. The tall sides give a good sense of security, but plenty of low-sided boats do fine. Outboard freeboard would be unchanged, anyway.

    One minor thing... the large main companionway drop board is a small pain. At the cost of a bigger step, one can build a smaller opening (higher step-over), hinge the board's lower edge in place and simply flip it down to exit or enter. No extra maneuver to stow. Magnets and/or catches to secure up and in place.

    Ditto that aft, but with half hinges so the board can be removed to clear the deck when needed.

    Oh, and we're going to enlarge the aft driver a bit. It's working, now, but could use just a little more area for more decisive action.

    So there's a bunch of little things. Everything is working well as is, but we BELIEVE these would make it even better.

    Happy building, and send us a launch pic for your flag!

    Dave Z

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  15. Thank you for the speedy reply and thorough shakedown. I have a few modifications in mind, simply because my needs are a bit different and my waterways are very different, but I want a boat that can handle 4 seasons here. It gets cold and snowy and a little bit icy on occasion, just not to the degree that Alaska does. But I envision some days with the stove going and me smoking my pipe with the hatch opened slightly.
    I'll have to look into the amas and akas a bit. What do you think for the outwales? White Oak maybe...I like Oak for squarish joinery. A really hard, sappy pine might work. I'm really looking forward to the build, I may need your advice from time to time. I built boats for years, but haven't actually built a boat in quite a few years. And my conditions for building aren't ideal. But I'm working on that now, while the weather is good. I'm going to try Total Boat Epoxy and I'm looking into a woven Hemp and Basalt fabric for layup, but it may not be cost effective. I'll know better later, after I get the plans. I won't be doing so much rowing like you two do. So I think, I'll probably omit the central storage and row station and opt for benches with lids on either side and a duckcloth cover for the bow with removable bows every 16" or so to help shed water. Details I'll have to figure out later.
    If you end up building a new rocket stove, I hope you'll make a video about it and offer plans.
    Anyway, I'll chat with you later. Thanks again Dave. Tell Anke thank you for me. I really enjoy your videos.

    All my best.
    Will Hester

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    1. Hi Will,

      Sounds like you've got more experience in boatbuilding than we do, so go with your instincts!

      Oak sounds like a good choice for wales, and fatwoods are nearly indestructible (aside from fire).

      One point... the longitudinal box seat provides considerable floatation in case of swamping, and reduces the cockpit load of water for less burden and quicker bailing. If you go with a thwart or two, you might consider building water-tight boxes under for a similar effect.

      Also, be aware that if you want a cockpit platform/leeboards, they stow longitudinally along the sides and link into the long seat, so those are a challenge with thwarts.

      We'll at least post on the Rocket Stove build, but it's pretty standard stuff... lots of YouTube out there now.

      Please feel free to write me at triloboats twirly gmail daughter com if I can help with anything.

      Enjoy your build!

      Dave Z

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